Product rendering of a submersible sump pump in a basement

Signs Your Sump Pump Is Failing

By Court Lundberg

A sump pump is one of those pieces of equipment that sits quietly in your basement, rarely thought about, and only reveals its importance when it fails. And because it only runs during heavy rain or snowmelt, you may not discover a problem until the water in your basement makes it impossible to ignore.

In Utah, snowmelt in spring and the occasional heavy summer storm can send significant water toward foundations, particularly in homes in lower areas of Salt Lake and Utah County where the water table rises seasonally. If your sump pump isn’t working when that water arrives, it arrives in your basement instead.

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Here’s what to watch for so you’re not finding out the hard way.

How a Sump Pump Works

A sump pump sits in a pit (the sump basin) at the lowest point of your basement or crawl space. Groundwater and drainage water collect in this pit through drain pipes and through natural water migration toward the foundation. When the water level in the pit rises to a set point, a float switch triggers the pump, which pushes the water up and out through a discharge pipe to the outside.

Most residential sump pumps are submersible units that sit inside the pit with the motor sealed in a waterproof housing. Some older homes have pedestal pumps where the motor sits above the pit on a column.

The float switch is the most critical component. If the float gets stuck, corroded, or tangled, the pump doesn’t know when to run.

Warning Sign 1: The Pump Runs Constantly or Very Frequently

A pump that runs nonstop or kicks on every few minutes, even during dry weather, is either dealing with more water than expected (which warrants looking at your drainage situation) or has a failed check valve.

The check valve is a one-way valve on the discharge line that prevents water from flowing back into the pit after the pump shuts off. When this valve fails, water drains back into the pit and the pump immediately triggers again. The pump runs in a cycle, burning out faster than it should and never fully draining the pit.

Check the discharge line above the pump when it shuts off. If you hear or see water running back into the pit within seconds of the pump stopping, the check valve is the problem.

Warning Sign 2: The Pump Doesn’t Turn On During a Rain Event

If your basement has water in it after a significant rain or snowmelt, and you don’t hear the pump running, it has failed to activate. This could be a failed float switch, a tripped circuit breaker, a failed motor, or a pump that was never installed correctly and doesn’t have power.

Check the circuit breaker first. Sump pumps are typically on their own dedicated circuit. If the breaker has tripped, reset it and investigate why. A breaker that trips repeatedly means the pump is drawing too much current, which usually indicates a failing motor.

If the breaker is fine and the pump still won’t run, the float switch or motor likely needs to be replaced.

Warning Sign 3: The Pump Makes Unusual Noises

A healthy sump pump runs with a consistent hum. Strange noises indicate a mechanical problem:

Grinding or rattling: Often means debris has gotten into the impeller, the rotating component that moves water. Small rocks, gravel, or debris from the pit can jam or damage the impeller. In some cases the debris can be cleared. In others, the impeller is already damaged and the pump needs replacement.

Gurgling when not running: Water draining back through a failed check valve makes a distinct gurgling sound as it re-enters the pit.

Loud motor noise: A motor that sounds labored or louder than it used to may be running hot, dealing with a partial blockage, or approaching failure.

Warning Sign 4: Visible Rust or Corrosion

If the pump, the pit, or the discharge pipes show significant rust or corrosion, the unit’s integrity is compromised. Rust on the pump body itself means the housing has been breached. Rust in the water being pumped can indicate internal corrosion.

Corrosion is particularly common in areas with hard water or where iron bacteria are present, both of which can be issues in some Utah water tables.

Warning Sign 5: It’s More Than 7 to 10 Years Old

Sump pumps don’t have indefinitely long service lives. Most quality residential units last 7 to 10 years under normal conditions. A pump approaching or past that age should be tested regularly and budgeted for replacement, not assumed to be fine.

The problem with aging sump pumps is that they tend to fail exactly when demand is highest, during heavy rain events when the system is working hardest. A pump that performs adequately during dry spells may not hold up when it’s running continuously for several hours during a major storm.

How to Test Your Sump Pump

Testing your pump is simple and takes about two minutes. Pour water slowly into the pit until the float rises high enough to trigger the pump. The pump should kick on, run, lower the water level, and shut off cleanly. Do this once or twice a year, particularly before spring snowmelt season in Utah.

If the pump doesn’t activate, activates but pumps slowly, makes abnormal noise, or doesn’t shut off when the water clears, that’s your signal to have it serviced or replaced before you need it for real.

A backup pump or battery backup system is also worth considering if your home is prone to water intrusion, and a smart leak shutoff covers the other half of the problem, the water arriving from inside the house rather than under it. Primary pump failures during power outages, which often coincide with the storms that flood basements, are common enough that a battery-backed backup is a reasonable investment.

Here’s the honest version of all this. A sump pump is the one piece of equipment in your home that only matters when a storm hits, and a storm is exactly when you can’t afford for it to fail. There’s no upsell to make here and we’re not going to invent one. Test it twice a year, replace it when it’s worn out, and don’t wait for a flooded Utah basement to find out it quit. That’s the whole pitch.

At Rare Breed Plumbing, Heating, and Air, we handle sump pump installation and service throughout Salt Lake, Davis, Utah, Weber, Summit, Tooele, Wasatch, Cache, and Box Elder counties. If your pump is aging, making noise, or you just want to know it’s ready for spring, call 385-449-0144 or book an appointment.

FAQ

How does a sump pump know when to run?

It sits in a pit at the low point of the basement or crawl space. When the water rises, a float switch turns the pump on and it discharges outside. If the float sticks, corrodes, or tangles, the pump never starts.

What are the warning signs?

Running constantly in dry weather, staying silent during rain or snowmelt, odd noise, visible rust, or age past 7 to 10 years.

How do I test a sump pump?

Pour water into the pit until the float rises. The pump should start, lower the water, and shut off cleanly. Do that twice a year, especially before spring snowmelt.

Why does this matter in Utah?

Spring snowmelt and the occasional heavy summer storm send water toward foundations, especially in lower parts of Salt Lake and Utah County where the water table rises.

Related: Drains & Sewer | Sump Pumps | Drain Cleaning | Emergency Plumbing

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